Estimated Time for Repair: 10 Minutes
Use a drum key to remove your tension rods, and then remove your drum hoop. Carefully grab one end of the mesh head and slightly lift it up enough to fit your hand under the mesh and grab a hold of the foam in the center. You will notice that the foam is adhered to the mesh head via a small circular adhesive dot. The goal is to slowly separate the mesh from the foam without ruining or tearing the foam.
You will now have to CAREFULLY seperate the pad foam from the trigger underneath it. The pad foam is adhered to the trigger via an adhesive circle between them. If you pry on the foam too hard, you could break the solder joints on the trigger. Carefully and slowly peel the foam away from the trigger.
Your new foam will also have the same adhesive dots on each end. Remove the paper from the adhesive dot on the side of the foam that is darker in color, and then place the foam down on top of the trigger with the darker end down and touching the trigger. Now remove the blue paper cover on top of the pad foam, exposing the black adhesive dot.
Before placing your mesh head down, please make sure that your pad foam is as straight as possible. Take your mesh head and gently place it down as straight as possible. The goal is to not bend the foam. After placing the mesh head down, take your hoop and re-tighten it down. If you have a drum dial, then we recommend setting your mesh to a tension of “70”. If you do not have a drum dial, then please tighten down the tension rods in an alternating pattern. Do not overtighten your mesh! Over-tightening your mesh will cause your mesh to fail much sooner than normal.